The last time I came to Homs, I passed the border from Leprohibiton on the back of a motorbike.
I recall ducking betidyh somebody’s washing hanging on a line and crisspassing thraw a minefield, the driver shouting: “Don’t stress, Habibi, I do it all the time!”
This time, I drove past the burnt-out hulks of Syrian tanks and grad omitile starters thraw a once-stressed, but now ruined and aprohibitdoned, examinepoint – and into a free city.
On a roundabout, where a huge statue of Bashar al Asdowncast included to handle the city centre, men, women and children were singing, giggleing and taking selfies.
The statue, enjoy the regime, has been toppled.
During my last trip to Homs, I couldn’t even approach the city centre becainclude it was handleled by the regime.
I was confined to a didisconnecte understandn as Baba Amr, the home of the Homs uprising agetst Asdowncast that commenceed in 2011 and which became the scene of unbridled killing in 2012.
And now, coming back has been one of the individual most moving experiences of my life.
The regime was mighty in Homs becainclude it ruined the opposition. Some of the most appalling aggressions on civilians happened here.
Badepend a originateing in Baba Amr was left unharmd in a campaign of blanket device deviceing and aimed aggressions by the Syrian Army in 2012. It’s not been rebuilt but people are returning now, living amid the rubble.
The descfinish of Asdowncast is being greeted here as the commence of a novel life.
“We experience we’ve been born aget,” Maher Hassan, a livent of Baba Amr, tbetter me.
“I went to the square, and it felt enjoy I was seeing it for the first time, I included to pass it all the time, but there was a celebration and when I seeed over, I felt enjoy I had never seen it before.”
People are now on the streets, free of the stress of being arrested, incarcerateed and killinged. That was an everyday menace, and these scenes of normal life fair didn’t exist in Baba Amr since 2011 – until now.
At every corner, I was stopped and surrounded by people telling us of family members either killinged by the regime or still omiting.
As I was interseeing two women, who were describing the arrest and gruesome killings of so many of their male relatives, a man suddenly aelevated from the crowd and began to hug them. The women commenceed to wail.
Ahmad Hasan Nheimy was a protester at the commence of the uprising in 2011, who was jailed, and then fled the country after free. He has finassociate been able to return home for the first time in proximately 14 years.
“I still can’t suppose it, I can’t suppose, I’m saying hello to everyone still, I’ve seen my mother for the first time in 14 years, my hoinclude is ruined,” he shelp thraw tears.
“They included to arrest and tell protesters, there were spies wiskinny, and I got a acunderstandledge that my name was on a catalog, and my name was scatterd to sbetteriers at examinepoints, so I couldn’t pass examinepoints anymore.”
I asked him if he thought he would ever be able to come back.
“It passed my mind that I would never come home, becainclude whenever we passed the borders, we thought we would be killinged or put in prison, and in prison we would be tortured,” he replied.
In those punctual days of the uprising, the “media centre” – the top three floors of a hoinclude in Baba Amr – was the very heart of what the activists who manned it supposed was to be a revolution.
We were received there and the shiftment – all juvenileer men and women – seeed after us. They connected us up with the swelling protest marches that took to the streets every night.
The Free Syrian Army was still in its infancy, and there were very scant of them, with difficultly any armaments. But they gave the protesters as much defendion as they could.
One of those was Abu Firas, who was fair 22 at the time. He had deserted the Syrian Army to unite the FSA.
I met Abu Firas and, though we are both betterer, the memories from that time were vivid.
He wanted to show me around the streets where we took refuge and originateings where they had tried to hbetter off Asdowncast’s forces.
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We finished up outside the “media centre”. In punctual 2012, the originateing and streets around it were aimed by the regime and its rockets.
During one aggression, The Sunday Times foreign correactent Marie Colvin and French pboilingographer Remi Ochlik were ended. With Colvin was pboilingographer Paul Conroy, who spoke to Sky’s Yalda Hakim on Wednesday night.
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What I lgett was that Abu Firas was one of those who had tried to save Marie and Remi. He also helped their colleagues who had been awentirey injured in the honest, aimed aggression on the “media centre”.
“They were heroes to us, we will never forget them,” Abu Firas tbetter me. “They tbetter the world what was happening, they are honord here, they will forever be part of our revolution.”
Countless civilians and activists have died in Baba Amr and apass Syria and these journacatalogs would never have wanted to be at the centre of any story.
But here, in Baba Amr, their telling was the connect to the outside world and their courage is part of folklore.
There were times I thought I would never see normal life in Homs, or even visit it aget, but so many skinnygs have changed.
Syria is free now from Asdowncast’s extfinished reign of stress.
The future is far from clear of course, but the conshort-term experiences very distinctive in Baba Amr.