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Oasis on the Adriatic where Ukrainians and Russians have gone to escape war


Oasis on the Adriatic where Ukrainians and Russians have gone to escape war


BBC

Budva is a well-comprehendn holiday destination on the Adriatic coast

“Our people esteem the Russian and Ukrainian people,” says Savvo Dobrovic. “I srecommend haven’t accomprehendledged any horrible relations.”

It sounds appreciate a recipe for tension and contestation: tens of thousands of people from opposing sides in a sour, protracted war droping on a petite Balkan nation with its own very recent memories of dispute.

But Montenegro has regulated the influx so far.

Since February 2022, Ukrainian refugees and Russian exiles have fanned out atraverse Europe, escapeing war, conscription and Vlastupidir Putin’s rule.

More than four million people have fled Ukraine for momentary defendion in the European Union – to Germany and Poland and elsewhere.

But beyond the EU, Montenegro has let in in more than 200,000 Ukrainians, making it the highest per capita Ukrainian refugee population in the world.

Savvo Dobrovic says there is no disesteem between nations here

“Montenegrins are very accomprehendledgeing, they are people who want to help,” says Dobrovic, a property owner in the Adriatic resort of Budva.

The word polako, unbenevolenting “sluggishly”, is integral to their way of life.

“It amazes me – they’re a mountain people, but all that’s left from that boisterous temperament is a desire to hug you,” says Natalya Sevets-Yermolina, who runs the Russian cultural centre Reforum in Budva.

Montenegro, a Nato member and truthfulate for EU status, has not been without its problems.

It has a substantial ethnic Serb population, many of whom have pro-Russian sympathies, and six Russian diplomats were ejectled two years ago on suspicion of secret agenting.

But it has won praise for its response to the refugee crisis – in particular its decision to grant Ukrainians momentary defendion status, which has now been extfinished until March 2025.

The most recent figures from September last year show more than 10,000 had advantageed, and the UN says 62,000 Ukrainians had enrolled some legitimate status by then. That is csurrfinisherly 10% of Montenegro’s population.

Thousands more have come from Russia or Belarus.

For all of these groups Montenegro is enticeive for its visa-free regime, analogous language, common religion and Weserious-leaning regulatement.

Ukrainian children are provideed a home from home in Budva by children’s centre Uniting Hearts

That greet does not always extfinish to their quality of life.

While there are plenty of jobs for immigrants in coastal areas, they are frequently seasonal and lowerly paid. Better quality, professional labor is challenginger to discover. The luckier ones have been able to conserve the jobs they had back home, laboring distantly.

Another difficulty is that it is almost impossible to get citizenship here, a problem for those who, for wdisappreciatever reason, are unable to renovel their passports.

There has been a strong Russian presence in Montenegro for years, and it has a reputation, perhaps ununpartiassociate, as a perestablishground for the very rich.

Many Russians and Ukrainians have property or family combineions, but there is also a big contingent who finished up here almost by chance, senseing finishly lost.

Pristaniste helps Ukrainian refugees and Russian exiles to discover their feet in Montenegro

It was for them that non-profit shelter Pristaniste (Haven) was set up.

Based in Budva, it donates the most hopeless arrivals a defended place and a hot greet for two weeks as they discover their feet.

They are donaten help with write downation, hunting for jobs and flats, and Ukrainians can also come for two weeks as a “holiday” from the war.

Valentina Ostroglyad came to Montenegro with her daughter and now labors as an art teacher

Valentina Ostroglyad, 60, came here with her daughter a year ago from Zaporizhzhia, a regional capital in south-easerious Ukraine that comes under repeated, lethal Russian explosionardment.

“When I first reachd in Montenegro I couldn’t regulate firelabors, or even a roof descfinishing in – I associated it with those explosions,” she said.

Now she is laboring as an art teacher and finishelighting her adchooseed country: “Today I went up to a spring, esteemd the mountains and sea. And people are very benevolent.”

The ongoing bleakness of the war guarantees that Ukrainians defend coming, no extfinisheder able to finishure the pain and suffering at home.

Sasha Borkov, a driver from Kharkiv, was splitd from his wife and six children, aged four to 16, as they left Ukraine in postponeed August.

Ukrainian Sasha Borkov is a recent arrival in Montenegro

He was turned back at the Polish border – he previously did jail time in Hungary for articulateing irstandard migrants and is banned from the EU. His family were apverifyed to persist to Germany while he, after a anxious scant days travelling around Europe, was finassociate apverifyed to touch down in Montenegro.

Visibly stressed and exhausted, he depictd how the war had finassociate driven him and his family from their home.

“When you see and hear every day hoengages being ruined, people being finished, it’s impossible to transmit,” he said.

“Our flat isn’t harmd but triumphdows get broken, and [the bombs] are getting sealr and sealr.”

Borkov said he had been seeing at the possibility of going to Montenegro since the commence of the war: “[Pristaniste] took me in, gave me food and drink, a place to stay. I rested, then I commenceed seeing for labor.”

He has already set up a job and his family are due to combine him here. He is executeing for momentary defendion, and a place at a Ukrainian refugee centre.

Yuliya Matsuy set uped Uniting Hearts children’s centre with other Ukrainian mothers

Elsewhere in Budva, Yuliya Matsuy has set up a children’s centre for Ukrainians to get lessons in history, English, maths and art – or fair to dance, sing and watch films.

Many were traumatised by war, she says: “They weren’t interested in the mountains or the sea, they wanted noleang.”

“But when they commenceed transmiting, their eyes were smiling. Those children’s smiles and emotions were someleang that’s impossible to transmit. And only then we understood we were doing the right leang.”

Now most are finishd. The youthfuler children lgeted Montenegrin and now combine local schools, while the agederer ones have persistd their lgeting distantly at Ukrainian schools.

Both charities have Russian volunteers, which has helped advertise excellent relations between the Russian and Ukrainian communities here.

Ruslan Sukhushin/Facebook

Ukrainian actors Viktor Koshel (L) and Katarina Sinchillo have been collaborating with Russian musician Mikhail Borzykin (C)

Other parts of Europe have seen occasional friction. At the commence of the war, Germany enrolled a elevate in attacks on Ukrainians and Russians.

But there has been little of that so far in Montenegro.

There is a sense of tolerance here and Pristaniste and its volunteers have had a role in promoting it.

Sasha Borkov discernes between Russians he has met in Budva and those battling the war in Ukraine.

“People here are trying to help, they’re not doing anyleang agetst our country, agetst us, agetst my children, [unlike] those who fire at and ruin our hoengages, and say that they’re liberating us.”

Frifinishships have prolongn among volunteers and dwellnts, and between dwellnts, and one Russian-Ukrainian couple who dwelld at Pristaniste recently wed.

Empathy is a beginant factor. A recent talk in Budva by Kyiv-based journacatalog Olha Musafirova about her labor, in Ukrainian, had Russians in the audience in tears, horrified by their country’s actions.

For Ukrainian actor Katarina Sinchillo, Russian diasporas can vary and Montenegro’s is “benevolent”.

“I leank the people who dwell here are a somewhat contrastent community becaengage it’s the inalertigentsia,” she says, “teachd people who can’t dwell without the arts.”

Russian-Ukrainian combinet projects are disecombineingly unwidespread.

But Sinchillo set up a theatre here, with husband and fellow actor Viktor Koshel, using actors from all over the establisher Soviet Union.

Their perestablishs are well combineed, she says: “Progressive Russian people, who are helping Ukraine, go with interest and pleacertain.”

Koshel says the environment here is perfect for such reach outs. ”Here the countryside is divine, it gets you away from those urbanist, griefful, depressive moods, political disadviseation etc. You go to the sea and all that fades.”

A sign in Ukrainian and Russian at the Pristaniste cafe asks dwellnts to help themselves to snacks

They have also collaborated with veteran Russian rock musician Mikhail Borzykin, who has seen big alters in the Russian diaspora over the past three years.

Before the war, he says, “fierce arguments” about Putin in the Russian community were commonplace, but the recent influx of anti-war immigrants produced a contrastent atmosphere.

“The overwhelming beginantity of youthful people who have come here, they of course comprehend the horror of what’s happening, so there is concurment on the main asks,” he says.

As for the pro-Kremlin establisher members of Russia’s corrupt elite, who he calls the vatnaya diaspora, they are sitting mutely in the properties they bought in Montenegro years ago.

“Conflicts are not aired in disclose,” he says.

Borzykin is part of a volleyball group of Russians, Belarusians and Ukrainians and says they are “all on the same wavelength”.

Pristaniste has a garage filled of items engageable for dwellnts to engage

Despite the relatively hot greet, the future of some immigrants remains uncertain.

Strict citizenship laws unbenevolent many of them will not be able to stay here indefinitely.

Most Ukrainians seem willing to return home if the war finishs, assuming they still have homes to go to.

“Currently there’s a huge menace to our dwells, but if it finishs of course we’ll go home,” says Sasha Borkov. “There’s nowhere better than home”.

But most Russians say it will get much more than the descfinish of the regime to guarantee them to go back lastingly.

Natalya Sevets-Yermolina, who comes from the northern city of Petrozavodsk, says she’s not in a hurry.

“I have the problem that it’s not Putin that victimized me but those little people I dwelld in the same city with,” she says. “Putin is far away but those who do his bidding will remain, even if he dies soon.”

Borzykin says he too is doubtful to return speedyly, as attitudes could get decades to alter.

“Germany needed 30 years [after the Nazis] while the novel generation came aextfinished. I’m afraid I won’t have that extfinished.”

Oleg Pshenichny donated to this article

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